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Hej alla glada! (sura också )

Jag har suttit en stund nu och letat efter några bra grundinställningar till framvagnen. (Sierra)

Är det någon som har en idé på vad som är gångbart utan att be mig köpa väghållningsboken eller leta på Rejsa!?

Jag vill få ett hum om Toe, Camber, Caster.

Mvh Mange

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För en MK rekommenderas 1 grad camber för landsväg, 2 grader för bana. Lite toe-in både fram och bak. Mushroom justeras för castor, toppen av kulleden så långt fram som möjligt.

Detta är taget från Irländska importören av MK. Självklart ska du senare låta något proffs göra slutjusteringen med laser osv.

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Tack för svaret, jag förstår bara inte riktigt vad du menar med mushroom justeras för caster, toppen av kulleden så långt fram som möjligt. Blir inte castervinkeln åt fel håll då??

Mvh Mange

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MK rekomenderar inte toe in utan neutral.

Här kommer lite mer info

Indy Set-up Advice

I got talking to Bill Adair about set up of my Indy and I'm going to pass on what I've found out.

Just to put it into perspective Bill has been racing cars for the guts of 25 years, has raced westfileds and is the Ireland agent for MK. I'm no expert and I'm merely relaying what he told me, also I'm jusyt starting to do this stuff to my own Indy.

First off is toe in / toe out. First get your car onto flat surface and point the front wheels straight ahead. Attach a couple of straight pieces of wood (any material woill do as long as they're straight) to the front wheels pointing out front - I used bungy cords seemed to work OK. Make sure the wood isn't being fouled by the front cycle wings or your fancy sticky-out alloy spokes!

I measure two points on the sticks (measured from the centre of the wheels) one 60cm out and one 120cm out. Measure the differnce in the widths of the sticks at these two points. If they're the same you're wheels are both pointing straight ahead niether toe in or toe out. If the 120cm point is narrower you're toeing in. Bill recommends a small amount of toe-in on an Indy. I sat down and did a bit ot trig and reckon that if the 120cm point is 10mm narrower than the 60cm point that's about 0.5 degrees toe in.

For castor Bill reckons if your castor is the same on both sides it's a big help. This can be checked by turning your wheels full lock to one side then hanging a plumb line down from the top of the wheel and seeing how much it overhangs thebottom of the wheel. Do the same on the other side and I guess you can adjust your mushroom insert to get them to match. I'm setting my castor basically to maximum, but I'm going to get both sides to match (they're about 3mm different at the mo).

Bump steer - this is one Bill told me about he reckons is veryt important. One of the big advantages is of an Indy is that the steering rack is shortened to reduce bump steer, however Bill reckons that if you take the bottom bolt of the coil-over and use a jack to move the car up and down (simulating full suspension travel) you can see if the car toes-in or out (using the stick method from above) if it is then shim the steering rack with a washer and try again. Ideally you should be able to get the suspension to travel without changing the toe-in or out of the car at all. According to Bill this greatly improves the car's handling and stability. On his hillclimb Westfield he had had had to shim the rack by 10mm to get it right, but when it did he reckoned it was worth 2000 quids worth spent on the engine!! I guess it's all to do with geting the ball joints at the end of the rack to line up exactly with the suspension brackets.

Corner weights. Bill reckoned getting a sturdy set of bathroom scales and 3 pieces of wood exactly the same height as the scales then setting the car up on these and rotating the scales round each wheel taking note of the weights (with you sitting in the seat of course). You then adjust the spring platform on the diagonallt opposite wheel (increase ride height to throw more weight onto the opposite wheel). Repeat until all 4 wheels are weighing the same, or as close as you can get them.

Now he never mentioned any way of measuring or setting up the camber of the front wheels - anyone got an easy way of doing that? I can't think of anything without removing the cycle wings!

I hope this might be of interest to some of you and I'm interested to hear if anyone has any improvments in any of these ideas - or spotted any mistakes!

Hoppas det är till hjälp

Michael W


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