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Mrsvetsare

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  1. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    Tog kontakt med ett stort företag här i sverige ang Ron`s kurs och min ide och dom nappade direkt och ställer upp med maskiner och bostad åt Ron samt fixar alla hans papper/moms kursen kommer sättas upp nästa år
  2. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    pratade med han och det blev lite missförstånd mellan oss han tar en avdelning i dessa kurser varje dag och man kan välja själv vad man vill att han skal lära ut Beginning Steel Workshop Brief discussion of metallurgy Discussion of types of steel used for auto body work, and appropriate thicknesses Discussion of hand tools used for auto body work, the different kinds of hammers and dollies In-depth discussion of the ways hammers and dollies can be used: on-dolly vs. off-dolly Demonstration of the hammerforming process - fabricating a '39 Ford grille bar Demonstration of hole filling, including welding and metalfinishing Demonstration of dent straightening and metalfinishing Demonstration of metal shaping Small patch panel demonstration, including welding, planishing, and metalfinishing Demonstration of heat shrinking Demonstration of the English Wheel Beginning Aluminum Workshop Discussion of the different alloys of aluminum and their working properties Discussion of temper for both heat-treatable and non heat-treatable alloys Discussion of the different thicknesses of aluminum used for different applications Hammerforming demonstration, involving the use of heat Riveting demonstration Making a small rectangular tank with rounded edges. Some seams will be TIG welded, some will be oxyacetylene welded. Making a small scoop, using mallet and sandbag shaping, hammer and dolly planishing, and metalfinishing. Demonstrating the English Wheel on Aluminum. Advanced Steel Workshop The project usually constructed in this workshop is the rear fender for a '34 Ford. We start with a discussion of how to best position the divisions between the pieces, keeping ease fabrication in mind, then patterns are made. Steel panels are cut from the patterns, then shaped. Shaping with a mallet and sandbag is shown first, then the panel is smoothed with a hammer and dolly. Next, the English wheel is utilized for forming and smoothing panels. After the panels are formed, they are welded together, and the welds are finished. Next, the wire and bead are added to the edge of the fender, and the last step is to start the metal finishing process. Advanced Aluminum Workshop We will make one side of a midget race car tail piece - this is a '60's style midget with a raised headrest. The part will be patterned, and aluminum pieces will be cut for the panels. The side piece is formed first, and the edge of the panel is annealed to ease the shaping. A process is shown to create the shape using only hand tools, then the English wheel is used to speed the process. Once the side is formed, the headrest is patterned, cut out, and annealed. A mallet and sandbag is used for the rough forming of the headrest, then the part is smoothed on the English wheel. The headrest is welded to the side panel, the weld is smoothed, and we will start the metalfinishing process. This is a generic outline that describes most advanced workshops. In reality, each workshop is different, because once people start asking questions, I may change the planned demonstrations to better match the interests of the group - the workshop format is a very interactive process. Bucks & Forms We will demonstrate several different types of bucks, and the processes used for creating each type. A male and female hammerform will be demonstrated, using materials like metal, plastic body filler, and Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). A station buck will be made, using either plywood or MDF - this is perhaps the most common style of buck. We will show how the proper contours are determined, how the stations are cut and fitted, and the simplest and fastest way to join them together. A wireform buck is demonstrated next. This style of construction is not as widely used as wood products, but it is very well suited for large panels with lots of changes of contour, and it is very quick and easy to modify. We will discuss some alternate methods of making bucks and forms, including clay, foam, and paper mache! Custom Grilles The first demonstration will be of a round-bar, oval shaped, midget race car style of grille. We will work with the perimeter first, discussing some different options for making this part. Once the perimeter is completed, we will work on the bars. We will determine the curvature and spacing required for the bars, and make a form for bending the bars in a uniform manner. A reference mark is made on each bar, then they are bent in the fixture, then trimmed to fit the perimeter. Simple fixtures are made to insure the spacing and alignment of each bar - essential to making a quality grille! The next demonstration is making a rectangular-bar grille for a '32 Ford. We will shape the perimeter first, using simple bending techniques, and fit this 'band' into the grille shell. A simple fixture is made to put a 'curl' on the end of each grille bar, and a process is shown for fitting and aligning each part. Several bars will be fitted to each of these grilles, but there is not enough time in the day to complete them. Last, we will look at some alternate ways of making custom grilles, using donuts, streamline tubing, oval tubing, and hammerformed sheet metal parts. This is a generic outline that describes most Bucks, Forms, and Grilles workshops. In reality, each workshop is different, because once people start asking questions, I may change the planned demonstrations to better match the interests of the group - the workshop format is a very interactive process. Motorcycle Fender The goal of this workshop is to make an Indian-style fender from steel. We discuss how you determine the number of pieces to make the fender from, and where the divisions between the pieces should be placed to ease the fabrication process. Patterns are made, transferred to steel sheet, and cut out. The side pieces are shaped first, and given a gentle all-over dome. We show how to do this with simple hand tools, or with the English wheel. Next, the distinctive step is rolled into the edge of the fender sides, and the outer edge is curled. The bottom edge is hemmed for strength, and to give the edge a finished appearance. The center part of the fender is roughed out with a mallet and sandbag, and a portion is smoothed with a slap hammer. Once we have demonstrated that smoothing is possible with hand tools, the English wheel is used to complete the shaping and smoothing. Next, the panels are tack-welded together, the joints are 'tuned-up' with a hammer and dolly, and they are finish welded. The last step is to complete the hemmed edge across the front and rear edge of the fender, and start the metalfinishing process. Motorcycle Gas Tank We will make a 'comma', or 'kidney bean' shaped custom tank from aluminum. We discuss the pros and cons of making a form or buck to work over, and the options for patterning the part. The side panels are cut out, annealed, and rough-shaped with a mallet and sandbag. Smoothing is demonstrated with a slap hammer and dolly, and with the English wheel. When the tank sides are properly shaped, a pattern is made for the tank top, and an aluminum panel is trimmed to size. This panel is annealed, shaped, and fitted to the tank sides, then tack-welded into place. After tacking, the joints are 'tuned-up' with a hammer and dolly, then finish welded. With the bottom still open, the top welded joints are worked with a hammer and dolly, and we will start the metalfinishing process. Due to time limitations, it is unlikely the entire tank will be metalfinished. If time permits, the bottom panel of the tank will be patterned, shaped, tack-welded, tuned-up, and finish welded. We will discuss how the tunnel is shaped and fitted into the tank, and the proper way to mount an aluminum tank, to help avoid the perils of stress cracks. Working with Tubing Tubing is one of the most versatile materials used for automotive and motorcycle projects. In this workshop we’ll look at ways to bend, join, taper, and flare tubing, all the way from the tiny tubing used for brake lines, to tubing large enough to make roll bars for cars, with special emphasis on exhaust systems and headers. Some of the planned demonstrations for the workshop are: Working with brake line tubing – cutting, bending, flaring Freehand bending of small diameter tubing Cold bending over a form Hot free bending Hot bending over a form Hot bending sand-packed tubing Bending square tubing Working with U bends Tapering tubing Making headers Hammerforming Workshop Hammerforms, or ‘form blocks’ are a very versatile metalforming technique. A shape is created from some dense material – usually wood, metal, or plastic, and a piece of sheetmetal is clamped over the block, and hammered until the metal takes on the form of the block. It’s a great way to make parts with accuracy, especially if multiple parts are needed. Some of the planned demonstrations are: Using a hammerform to make an automobile grille bar from sheetmetal Making and using a wooden male hammerform Making and using a metal male hammerform Making and using an open-bottom female hammerform Making and using a solid-bottomed female hammerform Using hammerforms with heat
  3. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    lungt skall kolla upp detta, tror nog att det inte är så stora problem som du beskriver
  4. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    detta var det han sa till mig
  5. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    Allt detta undervisar han på sina kurser 2 dagar Beginning Steel Workshop Brief discussion of metallurgy Discussion of types of steel used for auto body work, and appropriate thicknesses Discussion of hand tools used for auto body work, the different kinds of hammers and dollies In-depth discussion of the ways hammers and dollies can be used: on-dolly vs. off-dolly Demonstration of the hammerforming process - fabricating a '39 Ford grille bar Demonstration of hole filling, including welding and metalfinishing Demonstration of dent straightening and metalfinishing Demonstration of metal shaping Small patch panel demonstration, including welding, planishing, and metalfinishing Demonstration of heat shrinking Demonstration of the English Wheel Beginning Aluminum Workshop Discussion of the different alloys of aluminum and their working properties Discussion of temper for both heat-treatable and non heat-treatable alloys Discussion of the different thicknesses of aluminum used for different applications Hammerforming demonstration, involving the use of heat Riveting demonstration Making a small rectangular tank with rounded edges. Some seams will be TIG welded, some will be oxyacetylene welded. Making a small scoop, using mallet and sandbag shaping, hammer and dolly planishing, and metalfinishing. Demonstrating the English Wheel on Aluminum. Advanced Steel Workshop The project usually constructed in this workshop is the rear fender for a '34 Ford. We start with a discussion of how to best position the divisions between the pieces, keeping ease fabrication in mind, then patterns are made. Steel panels are cut from the patterns, then shaped. Shaping with a mallet and sandbag is shown first, then the panel is smoothed with a hammer and dolly. Next, the English wheel is utilized for forming and smoothing panels. After the panels are formed, they are welded together, and the welds are finished. Next, the wire and bead are added to the edge of the fender, and the last step is to start the metal finishing process. Advanced Aluminum Workshop We will make one side of a midget race car tail piece - this is a '60's style midget with a raised headrest. The part will be patterned, and aluminum pieces will be cut for the panels. The side piece is formed first, and the edge of the panel is annealed to ease the shaping. A process is shown to create the shape using only hand tools, then the English wheel is used to speed the process. Once the side is formed, the headrest is patterned, cut out, and annealed. A mallet and sandbag is used for the rough forming of the headrest, then the part is smoothed on the English wheel. The headrest is welded to the side panel, the weld is smoothed, and we will start the metalfinishing process. This is a generic outline that describes most advanced workshops. In reality, each workshop is different, because once people start asking questions, I may change the planned demonstrations to better match the interests of the group - the workshop format is a very interactive process. Bucks & Forms We will demonstrate several different types of bucks, and the processes used for creating each type. A male and female hammerform will be demonstrated, using materials like metal, plastic body filler, and Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). A station buck will be made, using either plywood or MDF - this is perhaps the most common style of buck. We will show how the proper contours are determined, how the stations are cut and fitted, and the simplest and fastest way to join them together. A wireform buck is demonstrated next. This style of construction is not as widely used as wood products, but it is very well suited for large panels with lots of changes of contour, and it is very quick and easy to modify. We will discuss some alternate methods of making bucks and forms, including clay, foam, and paper mache! Custom Grilles The first demonstration will be of a round-bar, oval shaped, midget race car style of grille. We will work with the perimeter first, discussing some different options for making this part. Once the perimeter is completed, we will work on the bars. We will determine the curvature and spacing required for the bars, and make a form for bending the bars in a uniform manner. A reference mark is made on each bar, then they are bent in the fixture, then trimmed to fit the perimeter. Simple fixtures are made to insure the spacing and alignment of each bar - essential to making a quality grille! The next demonstration is making a rectangular-bar grille for a '32 Ford. We will shape the perimeter first, using simple bending techniques, and fit this 'band' into the grille shell. A simple fixture is made to put a 'curl' on the end of each grille bar, and a process is shown for fitting and aligning each part. Several bars will be fitted to each of these grilles, but there is not enough time in the day to complete them. Last, we will look at some alternate ways of making custom grilles, using donuts, streamline tubing, oval tubing, and hammerformed sheet metal parts. This is a generic outline that describes most Bucks, Forms, and Grilles workshops. In reality, each workshop is different, because once people start asking questions, I may change the planned demonstrations to better match the interests of the group - the workshop format is a very interactive process. Motorcycle Fender The goal of this workshop is to make an Indian-style fender from steel. We discuss how you determine the number of pieces to make the fender from, and where the divisions between the pieces should be placed to ease the fabrication process. Patterns are made, transferred to steel sheet, and cut out. The side pieces are shaped first, and given a gentle all-over dome. We show how to do this with simple hand tools, or with the English wheel. Next, the distinctive step is rolled into the edge of the fender sides, and the outer edge is curled. The bottom edge is hemmed for strength, and to give the edge a finished appearance. The center part of the fender is roughed out with a mallet and sandbag, and a portion is smoothed with a slap hammer. Once we have demonstrated that smoothing is possible with hand tools, the English wheel is used to complete the shaping and smoothing. Next, the panels are tack-welded together, the joints are 'tuned-up' with a hammer and dolly, and they are finish welded. The last step is to complete the hemmed edge across the front and rear edge of the fender, and start the metalfinishing process. Motorcycle Gas Tank We will make a 'comma', or 'kidney bean' shaped custom tank from aluminum. We discuss the pros and cons of making a form or buck to work over, and the options for patterning the part. The side panels are cut out, annealed, and rough-shaped with a mallet and sandbag. Smoothing is demonstrated with a slap hammer and dolly, and with the English wheel. When the tank sides are properly shaped, a pattern is made for the tank top, and an aluminum panel is trimmed to size. This panel is annealed, shaped, and fitted to the tank sides, then tack-welded into place. After tacking, the joints are 'tuned-up' with a hammer and dolly, then finish welded. With the bottom still open, the top welded joints are worked with a hammer and dolly, and we will start the metalfinishing process. Due to time limitations, it is unlikely the entire tank will be metalfinished. If time permits, the bottom panel of the tank will be patterned, shaped, tack-welded, tuned-up, and finish welded. We will discuss how the tunnel is shaped and fitted into the tank, and the proper way to mount an aluminum tank, to help avoid the perils of stress cracks. Working with Tubing Tubing is one of the most versatile materials used for automotive and motorcycle projects. In this workshop we’ll look at ways to bend, join, taper, and flare tubing, all the way from the tiny tubing used for brake lines, to tubing large enough to make roll bars for cars, with special emphasis on exhaust systems and headers. Some of the planned demonstrations for the workshop are: Working with brake line tubing – cutting, bending, flaring Freehand bending of small diameter tubing Cold bending over a form Hot free bending Hot bending over a form Hot bending sand-packed tubing Bending square tubing Working with U bends Tapering tubing Making headers Hammerforming Workshop Hammerforms, or ‘form blocks’ are a very versatile metalforming technique. A shape is created from some dense material – usually wood, metal, or plastic, and a piece of sheetmetal is clamped over the block, and hammered until the metal takes on the form of the block. It’s a great way to make parts with accuracy, especially if multiple parts are needed. Some of the planned demonstrations are: Using a hammerform to make an automobile grille bar from sheetmetal Making and using a wooden male hammerform Making and using a metal male hammerform Making and using an open-bottom female hammerform Making and using a solid-bottomed female hammerform Using hammerforms with heat
  6. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    han pratar bara engelska men man förstår allt han säger
  7. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    covell vill gärna komma hit och behöver veta följande han behöver en lokal med maskiner i typ Tigsvets,gas,engelskt hjul,sickmaskin,krymp och sträck, samt allt annats som man bör ha i en verkstad ,wc ,vatten och kunna ta in ca 15 personer den som kan ställa upp med detta får kursen gratis/ så är det någon som kan ställa upp med detta så hör av er vet någon om man som ute ifrån (usa)måste lägga på moms/momsbeskatta när man håller föredrag/kurser??
  8. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    okej ber så mkt om ursäkt då
  9. jo hårdlöda/svetsa jag har en dillon som jag svetsar tunna saker med + även tigsvets http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
  10. Klart det finns pinnar för att svetsa aluminium http://www.svetsmastaren.se/katalog/ man kan tigsvetsa,migsvetsa,pinnsvetsa och löda aluminium
  11. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    menar inte på det viset=duktigast menar att corvell har nog lite mera kunskap om allt möjligt inom metal arbeten som inte lasse har och sen är ju inte lasse själv på plats och undervisar i sverige :( Jag har köpt corvells dvd om olika byggen m,m och är mkt nöjd väntar på svar av han med olika frågor ang kursen och återkommer senare med svar åt er Mvh Mrsvetsare
  12. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    och jag tror nog covell är lite duktigare än lazze
  13. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    detta svar fick jag av covell I'd probably need a minimum of 15 people for two days to make a weekend workshop worthwhile In the US, I charge $190 per person per day - Out of the US, I normally charge $160 (1071 Kronor). detta är väl inte allt för dyrt va?? och detta är lazze pris Härmed anmäls följande personer till Lazzes 3-dagarsutbildning i avancerat bilplåtslageri. Kursplats (samtliga kurser): TIDAHOLM. Steg 1-kurser hålles måndag-onsdag, Steg 2-kurser måndag-fredag. Kurstider: Dag 1 och 2: Kl. 08:00 - 17:00. Dag 3: Kl. 08:00 - 16:00. Kursavgift/person och dag oavsett steg: Företag: 2.050:- Privatperson: 1.665:-. Kursmaterial samt för- och eftermiddagskaffe men ej lunch ingår i kursavgiften. Moms tillkommer. Anmälan bekräftas skriftligt så fort denna anmälan kommit oss tillhanda. Välj när Du/Ni önskar deltaga och fyll i övriga uppgifter nedan:
  14. Mrsvetsare

    Kurs

    verkar som ingen har intresse eller fattar vem denna man är Har iallafall försökt att informera er om detta söker upp annat folk i andra forum då mvh Mrsvetsare
  15. Mrsvetsare

    Ron Covell

    Hej jag har kontakt med Ron covell och han vill starta upp plåt kurser i sverige och jag skall jaga upp mkt folk åt han Finns det nåt intresse för att SUPER DUKTIGE ron covell startar upp lite kurser här för oss?? :D för er som inte vet vem detta är så finns han här www.covell.biz och har lärt ut mkt knep till http://www.lazze.se/ och även tagit över han lokal i usa
  16. jag skall bygga en bil + gillar att prata om svetsning men vill ni att jag lägger av så gör jag det vill bara få visa hur en migsvets skall låta när man svetsar, lite svårt att få detta "smatter ljud" förklarat i tangentbordet om du/ ni kollar på denna svetssträng dom visar på videon, är era så då svetsar ni okej och jag lovar att ni blir godkända :D http://www.shopoutfitters.com/SmokeDrafter.html ladda ner videon skall ej störa er mera med svetsning :)
  17. Vilken av dem beställde du? Jag beställde ALLT dvs alla 4 saker man kan göra med denna först måste jag få ett transport pris till sverige av dom, sen betalar jag den
  18. Änligen en som ser solen :D :racesmile: på ebay fanns det 1 st för 100$ jag skall ej ha denna bock nu , skall ha den andra som man kan typ göra allt med skall ha denna för att konstruera galler,barnvagnar,minimoppar,skylltar, mm.m sen skall jag ta den till brasilien och ha den i min verkstad och tillverka grejer åt folket skiter i om den kostar 5-10000 kr jag kommer tjäna in dessa pengar ganska så snabbt
  19. Pallar ej tjafsa med er mera har beställt denna nu http://www.shopoutfitters.com/TubeBender.html ps fast man skulle typ visa detta framför ögonen på er så skulle ni ändå säga någon liten synpunkt på bocken Typ- nja den är ju så liten,, håller säkert inte mer än 20 -30 gr,, kan man inte bocka en 8a med den?? ovs,osv
  20. här har ni/du lite bilder att titta på
  21. Förstår dig men du tror ju inte på saker som ej finns och fungerar jag har ingen åsikt om "din" rörbock över huvud taget utan ville bara påpeka att bara för att ett företag säger att deras produkt är superbra behöver det inte betyda skit i verkligheten.... att han visar länkar till bilder säger egentligen ingenting... han kan ha använt sand eller tillåme snott bilderna från någon annan och lagt upp... Skulle han allså fylla med sand och sen påstå att den fungerar helt okej? På sidan så finns det ju MKT folk som byggt denna och säger att den fungera SUPER BRA så han kanske sätter in egna bilder på sina grejer och har olika namn-email och berättar storys om hur bra dessa fungerar?? Säger inget mer om dig-så har jag inget sagt
  22. okej men vad säger denna bild då ?? kommer snart få andra bilder på tunnväggiga rör han bockat kanske, kanske alla börjar snart börjar tror på mig att det finns ett bock som fixar detta I have not bent exhaust pipes but I have bent 1.5 OD with .125 wall and I have bent 1.5 OD with .049 and .058 wall CroMoly tubing with out crimps http://www.gottrikes.com/1_5tubing_sample.htm
  23. Det känns som vi kan lägga ner diskussionen här.... Det kanske känns så för dig men inte för mig!! jag vet vad jag pysslar med och kan men när det gäller svetsning och ville ge killen ett gott råd när det gäller svetsning men du har ju förstört killens intresse mer och mer när det gäller att kunna svetsa själv men det är väl bara för killen att lämna bort det så är det bra med det Nu är diskussionen klar!
  24. om du tittar hemsidorna hur rören blir när dom bockar så ser du väl att dom fungerar bra man kan ju bocka upp till 2 " utan att det blir veck i rören har jag fått besked om Men jag får väl bygga denna snart så du får se att det fungerar som det skall
  25. studerat lite nu på hur pressverktygen är på jullas + verktygsboden detta kan nog fungera mkt bra bara att göra lite justeringar på infästningen av pressverktyget pga den har ju inte samma form = inte 90gr som på lowbock men detta fixar man ju ganska så lätt eller då tar men en liten bit och svetsar fast på julas/vb och sen sätter en distanshylsa på den så blir den ju exakt samma,nästan jag skall iallafall testa detta
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