voucht

Hi, I just wanted to remain you that these seat belts are still for sale. I'm leaving Sweden soon (I'm going back to France), so it would be nice if I could sell them before I leave ! Thanks ! Sylvain

Links don't look to be working. I try here: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/fr/securon-static-adjustable-seatbelt-short-stalk-buckle

Hi, I'm selling a pair of new seat belts from CBS http://www.carbuilde...rt-stalk-buckle They just have been mounted once for passing Bilprovning on my Haynes Roadster. They have never been used otherwise, and of course never been in an accident! So they are like new, except unavoidable bolt marks on the mounting points. They come complete with bolts and spacers. E-marked, short stalk (150mm). I sell them half price, so you get two seat belts for the price of one : 385 kr Description in Swedish on my add on Blocket (search in Kronoberg "bildelar verktyg", then in the add, go down to item n°19) Please, check out the complete add, there a lot of other parts/tools I'm selling to have more room in my garage. Thanks, and I wish you all a beautiful summer ! 19 by Sylvain ROIG, sur Flickr

Hi, Sorry I write in English, but anyone can translate with Google ;)/> Have you moved RS6 and RS3 backwards to achieve that? If you did, you should say so, so people don't think that what you shown the video is possible with a “book” specifications chassis. Or have you removed the differential flange nut in the front of the diff? I have been building my Haynes Roadster for 3-1/2 year now, spent more than 1000 hours on it so far, passed the SFRO 1st inspection, and I'm at the final stage (I'm now fitting the bodywork), so I think I know what I'm talking about, and I can share my experience. I wrote to you personally in January to explain you why, in my opinion, it is not a good idea to weld the differential brackets. You told me yourself that on the CAD simulations you've done, it was not possible to fit the diff with welded brackets without altering the back frame. In February, after my 1st SFRO inspection, I removed everything from my car in order to have the chassis painted. When I refitted the differential, I checked again if what you wanted to do is possible. I tried to fit the differential with my brackets bolted to the chassis, as if they were welded. And it is not possible at all with a book chassis, believe me. You need to bolt the brackets to the diff first, and then install the all assembly together, by being able to put the differential sidewards, as it is too long to be flipped straightly without touching BR12 and RS6. And turning it sidewards is not possible if the brackets are welded on the chassis, they will be in the way. That is the reason why theses brackets have been designed for being bolted/removable. I don't know how you managed to slide the wooden back frame over the Sierra differential, but there should be something not regular, because to me, it is impossible if you have respected the book's specifications. And in real life, you will not slide the entire chassis over the diff like you do on the video with the wooden back frame, but you will slide the diff inside the chassis from underneath, which might be another matter! I still keep on thinking it is not a good idea to weld the differential brackets to the chassis, and as I told you already, I don't even see the benefit of it. I can bet now that if you do so, you will regret it one day. But it is just my humble opinion :)/> Good luck with your build. Sylvain

Hi, I just posted a topic about my SFRO1 inspection I took yesterday for my Haynes Roadster, in the SFRO section of this forum here: http://forum.locostsweden.se/index.php?showtopic=11756 Hope this could be useful to other Haynes roadster's builders. Bye. Sylvain

First, again, sorry about the English, but I really can't write in Swedish yet. For those who don't know me (I can't say I'm very active on this forum), I'm French, live in Sweden, and almost 3 years ago, I have started building a Haynes Roadster (Chris Gibbs book). There is a link to my build blog in my signature, but it is not really up to date, but that can give you an idea of what I'm building. Yesterday, I've been to my first SFRO inspection, and I thought it could be interesting for other members if I shared my experience here. Well, I'm happy to say: it went pretty well in my opinion! First the inspector made me talk about my build, the construction of the chassis, the parts I fitted, their origin, the technical choices I've made. There has been also a bit of paperwork, and I think he appreciated the way I planned the car, and the fact that I could answer all his question straight away. I think, among other things, they want to know and figure out the way you are thinking, planning, etc. I gave him a 3 page memo (same as the example from page 14 and 15 of SFRO's manual), and I think it is good to do that. The memo has to be completed, as the car is not finished yet, and even though he didn't really use it for this first inspection, I think (and I have been told), that it is quite important to have one well detailed, good looking, even with pictures (hidden elements for example). Then he told me that he couldn't see any major problem with my build, and asked me to make only two small adjustments before the final inspection: - put one or two extra fitting points on the exhaust, and at least one of them has to be from underneath the exhaust (there is only one now, and the muffler is hanging from it). - reconnect the rocker-cover breather to the intake manifold or induction pipe. There is just a small breather filter now, and they don't want that, or even an oil catch tank. They want all the vapours to be recycled in the engine to be burnt. So, nothing really bad :)/>/> I guess you all know my inspector, as he is Bosse Bildoktorn. I have to say that he has been very friendly, welcoming, nice, with a good sense of humour, and it he spoke English with me very willingly even though he is absolutely not obliged to do so. So very good feelings with him, he is a nice person (and he knows his stuffs!) For those who are wondering about the shock absorbers angle, topic that has been discussed on the Haynes Roadster section of this forum, SFRO recommends not more than 20° if I remember well, and the shock absorbers on a Haynes Roadster, according to the books design have a 45° angle. My Roadster has been built according to the book specifications, so with the 45° angle, and the inspector didn't stop on it, he didn't even mention it. So I guess it is a recommendation for people who "design" their own car, but not a requirement for builders. So, if some of you are building a Haynes, and are still wondering about that, I think you shouldn't worry too much about that, and stick to the book's design. I know the JanneE hasn't had any problem with that either, he passed SFRO2, and his car has been fully approved with the book's design suspension. But yesterday was not the best day in Smaland when it comes to weather, and driving there and back, loading and unloading 2 times the Roadster on the trailer in the cold has been a real pain though, the weather was terrible (snow, wind, and slippery roads, all that at night time), but we did it! So now, the goal is to have the car finished for May or June. I'll get my body kit in 2 or 3 weeks, and now, I have time to strip off the car, send the chassis to sandblasting and powder coating, buy another engine, and finally reassemble everything together. I'll keep you posted :)/>/> I hope this post will be useful to this forum's member. Bye for now. Sylvain http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/99498333@N06/

Found the guy who is making the adaptor, from the other forum. In the UK though... http://www.guy-croft.com/index.php

Hi, http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2931 I couldn't find where the guy bought the "GCRE convesion" he is talking about but it looks like there are good tips about this adaptation: it looks like you just have to make an adaptor plate to adapt the bell housing of the Fiat on the type 9's main body. If you have both ends and the right clutch (RS2000 according to them), you can take the measurements yourself and have the adapter plate done by a local machine shop? Just a thought... Good luck!

Hi, Sorry I just found your post today, and I have no time to reply in details. But there is one question I want to give you an answer about right now: "Why is 14" open and 9,5" closed shock absorbers recommended on the forum over the 13"/9" recommended in the book?" You have the explanation here: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5820 3rd post, fom "Bonzo". I found other interesting posts about that, and you might find more answers: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=7246 http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=74893#post74861 Strange you can not register to the Haynes Forum. Have you tried lately? I know they closed it for new users about one year ago because the forum had been hacked and all the threads were spammed, it was a nightmare! But now that everything is back to normal again, it should be re-open to new uses. I'll reply longer later, but now too busy before Christmas ! Good luck. Thanks. Sylvain

Hello, I'm intruding in this thread. I'm building a Haynes Roadster too, in Smaland. Sorry, I'm French and I don't speak Swedish (or very bad), and I translated this thread with Google, so I might miss some things, sorry if I did and I'm repeating things that have actually already been said. I thought I could share my experience with you about this thread's topic, as I have been through already. I hope it can be useful to some of you, even though it might be a bit late :) I am a lot on the Haynes Forum (uk), and very active there. It turned out that the shock absorbers lengths advised in the book are a bit wrong. You will need ether an extension, or longer ones. There are detailed threads on the haynes forum about that. if you want, I can try to dig them out for you. There is a general agreement about what is needed on the Haynes Roadster, and that is what I bought for mine. 4 x shock absorbers 2,25'' diameter x 14'' open x 9,5'' closed. I chose “Gazshocks” Rally Design part number G140/095B12-2 if it can help. This is very important for the calculation of the ground clearance (rallyelwood, I like your CAD drawing by the way!) A good start for the spring rates and lengths is 350 lbs x 8'' front and 250 lbs x 9'' rear. Of course this can vary according to the use of the car (Road, track days, etc.) When it comes to ground clearance now, yes, 100mm front and 150mm back seems to be a good starting point too. But keep in mine that the chassis will not be the lowest point of the car. The oil sump will. As I am using a 2,0i 8v DOHC from a ford Sierra with the MT75 gearbox, the shortening possibilities are not big, and my sump is ticking out 35-40mm under the bottom rail (if I remember well), which gives ma a "theoretical" ground clearance of 60-65mm only in theory ! http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/2013_06_01_archive.html I think I am going to set up the ground clearance at more the 100mm in the front when the roadster is finished. When it comes to wheels now, even 14'' inch wheels don't fit the rear upright/lower wishbone bolt. I know because I have tried that not long ago (I have pictures if you want). 15'' are the only option with the book's rear suspension design. Personally I have 7x15 wheels with 195/55x15 tyres (to keep the same development as the 185/65x14 mounted on the my Sierra donor as I use the same gearbox and speedometer. Wheels' offset (ET) is 38. More than 40 seems too much to me, the wheels is going to be very much "inside the car", and it might not look good under the rear arches (big gap between the wheel and the outside edge of the rear arch). My build blog is not up to date at all (I'm very late!) but you can see recent pictures of my car on my flickr page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/99498333@N06/ Hope this will help. Thanks. Sylvain

Thank you very much for your reply Gustaf. Are you the same Gustaf who ordered brake lines from me a couple of months ago? If yes, how is it going? Do they fit as you wanted? If you have some pictures of the brake lines installed on the car, I'd love to see them. Could you please send some by email? Regarding theses bellows, I wanted to find them locally, shipment cost from the UK are too high for these kind of cheap parts. It is very good to know that the Golf MK1 ones fit, thanks! I finally dug up a single bellow from an old box lying in the garage, and it fits perfectly (I actually needed to change only one of the 2 bellows). So for now it will do the job! However, if someone has a set of original Escort MK1/2 steering rack bellows for sale in Sweden, I'm still buyer :) Thank you for the reply. Best regards.

Hello everybody, I'm looking for a pair of original and new bellows (kuggstångsdamask) for my Escort MKII steering rack. Any one could sell me that for a good price please? Thank you very mcuh :)/>

Hi, These parts are still for sale if anyone is interested. Thank you.

Thank you very much for the reply Gustaf, very helpful. I've contacted Svea Kardan in Bromma, we'll see if they reply. Otherwise I guess I will have to order it from the UK, I've sent enquiries to 3 different companies, so we'll see... I'll post the result of my researches here when I get all the answers. Thanks again. Best regards. Sylvain

Hello everyone, Sorry to post this in English in this section. Does anyone know a company in Sweden which manufactures custom propshaft, just as Bailey Morris (http://www.baileymorris.co.uk/kitcar.asp) does in the UK? My local engineering shop don't want to shorten the one I have from my donor, so I guess I'll have to buy a custom made one :(/> I live in Kronoberg, close to Växjö. I'm building a Haynes Roadster with 2.0i DOHC engine and a MT75 gearbox from a Ford Sierra 2.0i CLX 1992. Thank you very much in advance for your replies. Sylvain